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Showing posts with label Free Patterns- Knit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Free Patterns- Knit. Show all posts
With smaller needles US 6 – 4 mm and color A and
using the long-tail method, CO on 88
sts, place marker of a different colorand join in the round, being careful not to twist.
Round 10: Begin chart – the stitch marked area is
two stitches to the right and left of the chart. IGNORE BLANK
LINES AT THE BOTTOM OF THE CHART
CHART IS READ FROM BOTTOM UP. RIGHT TO LEFT ON RIGHT SIDE ROWS (knit rows)
AND LEFT TO RIGHT ON WRONG SIDE ROWS (purl rows). THE CHART BEGINS WITH THE BOTTOM LINE OF THE
ACTUAL WRITING
If you are unfamiliar with the wrap and
turn method and picking up the wraps when knitting in the round, please watch
this video from PlanetPurl. There are
many versions showing this technique but at least this video shows the
technique using a hat although they don’t show a stitch marker showing the
beginning of the round.
This project can also be knit flat if
you do not want to do the method above.
Round 30: (color A) knit
Measure hat to see if it is the approximate length
you’d like. Smaller size hats are approx 6” before decreasing, larger hats can
be from 7” to 8” depending on your preferences. Hat pictured is 7”before beginning decrease rounds. Follow
decrease rounds if your hat is the proper length. Repeat round 30 as many times as needed
before your decrease rounds begin.
DECREASE ROUNDS - Use color A for
all decrease rounds and change to dpn’s when sts get tight to knit.
Round 1: *(K6, K2tog) repeat from *
Round 2 and all even Rounds: Knit
Round 3: *(K5, K2tog) repeat from *
Round 5: *(K4, K2tog) repeat from *
Round 7: *(K3, K2tog) repeat from *
Round 9: *(K2, K2tog) repeat from *
Round 11: *(K1, K2tog) repeat from *
Round 13: *(K2tog) repeat from *
Small hats stop here. Larger hats, continue with Round 14 and 15
Round 15: *(K2tog) repeat from *
Cut yarn leaving a 8" tail. Using large eyed
sewing needle run thread through remaining stitches and fasten off. Weave in
ends and finish off.
This
pattern has been tested. Please notify
me of any pattern corrections. I will answer any and all questions you may have
with the instructions. Do not plagiarize
this pattern. All
patterns are my original designs. Please do not re-sell my patterns or give
them away for free or post my patterns on the Internet. You may sell items you
make from my patterns at craft fairs, fund raisers or custom orders for friends
and family but please do not sell finished items on the internet without my
written permission. Do not claim designs as your own.
This pattern is copyrighted by me and I give my
permission for you to post pictures of items made from my pattern on your
website if you will post a link back to my Ravelry store if the pattern is for
sale.If the pattern is free, please
direct people to my Blog.Be sure to
list the name SmoothFox as the designer.
If you want a .pdf copy of this pattern
or if you make this item – please click on this link below and
add your own pictures as a project on Ravelry. Just click on the crochet hook
with the words “Hook It” if this is a crochet pattern or if it is a knit
pattern click on the words “Cast On” near the top right side and this will add
your item as a project. Then you can add the pictures when you have completed
your project.
Illusion Knitting uses flat Knitting (Knits on the
right side, Purls on the wrong side) and raised Knitting (Purls on the right
side, Knits on the wrong side) to raise the colors you want. This way, when you
look at your item straight on, you see stripes of the two colors in your
project and when you look at your project from a different angle, you see the
magic of Illusion Knitting.
To Illusion knit one row on a regular chart it
takes 4 rows of Knitting. For this
pattern, the first two rows are in one color (the heart color OR the image you
are wanting to stand out) and the second two rows are in the background
color. Starting on the right side, the
first and every odd row number are Knit across all stitches. On the wrong side (every even numbered row)
you will Knit the stitches you want to raise, and Purl the stitches you want to
lay flat.
Here is the video for this project:
As my blog consists mostly of crochet
people I have made parts of the video very simple so that crocheter’s can learn
to knit. Speed thru the parts you don’t
need.
Here is the link if you need it instead of watching the video here:
Using your background color with a long tail cast
on – CO 5 stitches, PM, CO 21 stitches, PM, CO 5 stitches.
Knit 1 row BACKGROUND COLOR (in this pattern the
yellow is the background color)
This is the FILLER
section;
Row 1: K31 HEART COLOR
Row 2: K5, P21, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 3: K31 BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 4: K31 BACKGROUND COLOR
Repeat
above rows 3 or 4 times
NOTE: THE PINK 5 SQUARES TO THE RIGHT AND LEFT OF
THE ACTUAL HEART ON THE CHART ARE JUST THE BORDER STITCHES. THE ACTUAL PATTERN IS FOR THE HEART BUT DOES
INCLUDE INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE BORDER.
Charts are normally read from the bottom up, right
to left on all odd row numbers and from left to right on all even row
numbers. As this chart is the same when
read from right to left or left to right you can read from right to left on all
rows. Start in the bottom right corner
as line 1.
You can work strictly
from the chart above, instead of reading the pattern below if you’d like and
for each line of the chart do the following 4 rows:
Row 1: (heart color) knit one row plain
Row 2: (heart color) knit the border, purl the
non-heart pattern, knit the heart pattern, purl the non-heart pattern, knit the
border
Row 3: (background color) knit one row plain
Row 4: (background color) knit the border, knit
the non-heart pattern, purl the heart pattern, knit the non-heart pattern, knit
the border
If you are going to
work strictly from the chart and are going to work a scarf, you must see the
instructions at the end of the written instructions for the
second half of the scarf as you must reverse some of the rows around.
WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS
FOR THE PATTERN START HERE:
LINE 1 OF CHART
(bottom line of chart)
Row 1: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 2: K5, P10, K1, P10, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 3: Knit BACKGROUND
COLOR (RS)
Row 4: K15, P1, K15
BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 2 OF CHART
Row 5: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 6: K5, P9, K3, P9,
K5 HEART COLOR
Row 7: Knit BACKGROUND
COLOR (RS)
Row 8: K14, P3, K14
BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 3 OF CHART
Row 9: Knit HEART COLOR
(RS)
Row 10: K5, P8, K5,
P8, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 11: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 12: K13, P5, K13
BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 4 OF CHART
Row 13: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 14: K5, P7, K7,
P7, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 15: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 16: K12, P7, K12
BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 5 OF CHART
Row 17: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 18: K5, P6, K9,
P6, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 19: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 20: K11, P9, K11
BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 6 OF CHART
Row 21: Knit HEART COLOR (RS)
Row 22: K5, P5, K11,
P5, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 23: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 24: K10, P11, K10 BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 7 OF CHART
Row 25: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 26: K5, P4, K13,
P4, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 27: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 28: K9, P13, K9
BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 8 OF CHART
Row 29: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 30: K5, P3, K15,
P3, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 31: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 32: K8, P15, K8
BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 9 OF CHART
Row 33: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 34: K5, P3, K7,
P1, K7, P3, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 35: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 36: K8, P7, K1,
P7, K8 BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 10 OF CHART
Row 37: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 38: K5, P3, K6,
P3, K6, P3, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 39: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 40: K8, P6, K3,
P6, K8 BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 11 OF CHART – TOP
LINE OF CHART
Row 41: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 42: K5, P4, K4,
P5, K4, P4, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 43: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 44: K9, P4, K5,
P4, K9 BACKGROUND COLOR
Work FILLER instuctions (SEE ABOVE AT TOP OF PATTERN) 3 or 4 times.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR A
SQUARE AND A SCARF:
FOR A SQUARE: – BIND
OFF (SEE VIDEO). CUT YARN, WEAVE ENDS.
FOR A SCARF:
Repeat rows 1 to 44 plus
the number of filler rows between each heart as many times as you wish for one
half of your scarf. Once you have
reached the half way point, begin working the pattern slightly
differently. Written instructions are
below this explanation.
GENERAL INFORMATION AGAIN:
This is just some
information if you are interested in knowing what happens now. If not, skip down to the instructions
below. You will reverse some of the the
four knitted rows it takes to work one line of the chart. You would be working
the very top line of the chart – LINE 11 – working from top to bottom but the
instructions change now.
First - Row 43
Second - Row 44
Third - Row 41
Fourth - Row 42
Then you would go down
a line of the chart and work
First – Row 39
Second – Row 40
Third – Row 37
Fourth – Row 38
Notice you are not
working from the bottom of the written instructions backwards but that you are
working the instructions within each line reversed. Ie… 43, 44, 41, 42 instead of 44, 43, 42, 41
INSTRUCTIONS FOR
SECOND HALF OF A SCARF:
LINE 11 OF CHART – TOP
LINE OF CHART
Row 43: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 44: K9, P4, K5,
P4, K9 BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 41: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 42: K5, P4, K4,
P5, K4, P4, K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 10 OF CHART
Row 39: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 40: K8, P6, K3,
P6, K8 BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 37: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 38: K5, P3, K6,
P3, K6, P3, K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 9 OF CHART
Row 35: Knit BACKGROUND
COLOR (RS)
Row 36: K8, P7, K1,
P7, K8 BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 33: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 34: K5, P3, K7,
P1, K7, P3, K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 8 OF CHART
Row 31: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 32: K8, P15, K8
BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 29: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 30: K5, P3, K15,
P3, K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 7 OF CHART
Row 27: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 28: K9, P13, K9
BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 25: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 26: K5, P4, K13,
P4, K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 6 OF CHART
Row 23: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 24: K10, P11, K10 BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 21: Knit HEART COLOR (RS)
Row 22: K5, P5, K11,
P5, K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 5 OF CHART
Row 19: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 20: K11, P9, K11
BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 17: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 18: K5, P6, K9, P6,
K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 4 OF CHART
Row 15: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 16: K12, P7, K12
BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 13: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 14: K5, P7, K7,
P7, K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 3 OF CHART
Row 9: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 10: K5, P8, K5,
P8, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 11: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 12: K13, P5, K13
BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 2 OF CHART
Row 7: Knit BACKGROUND
COLOR (RS)
Row 8: K14, P3, K14
BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 5: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 6: K5, P9, K3, P9,
K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 1 OF CHART (bottom line of chart)
Row 3: Knit BACKGROUND
COLOR (RS)
Row 4: K15, P1, K15
BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 1: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 2: K5, P10, K1, P10, K5 HEART COLOR
This is the FILLER
section which is no longer like the top filler section;
This
pattern has been tested. Please notify
me of any pattern corrections. I will answer any and all questions you may have
with the instructions. Do not
plagiarize this pattern. All
patterns are my original designs. Please do not re-sell my patterns or give
them away for free or post my patterns on the Internet. You may sell items you
make from my patterns at craft fairs, fund raisers or custom orders for friends
and family but please do not sell finished items on the Internet without my
written permission.
This pattern is
copyrighted by me and I give my permission for you to post pictures of items
made from my pattern on your website if you will post a link back to my Ravelry
store if the pattern is for sale. If
the pattern is free, please direct people to my blog: http://SmoothFoxLover.blogspot.com Be sure to list the name SmoothFox as the
designer.
Years ago I was into doing ceramics and made a small chicken sitting on a basket and gave it to my sister. She loves that little ceramic dish. Anyway, last Christmas I told her I'd make her a cozy to go over her French Press a.k.a. Cafetière. I then promptly forgot her request until she reminded me a couple of weeks ago.
I set about creating what I thought was a chicken sitting in a nest cozy. My husband walks in and see's it and says "Cute Owl" so I was shocked yet laughed and looked at it closely and thought, yeah it could be an owl. However, once I was done with it I also thought it could be a DoDo Bird.
Anyway, here is the video and if you know how to knit and crochet I believe you can follow the video to make it.
US 8 – 5 mm- 20” circular needle or 16” circular needle
US 8 – 5 mm - 1 set of double-pointed needles
Skill level:Intermediate
Gauge: 5 stitches and 5 Rounds to 1 inch (2.5 cm) Hat Sizes: Preemie, Baby, Toddler Preemie hat circumference 12”(30.50 cm) - CO is 60 Baby hat circumference – 14.5”(36.75 cm) – CO is 72 Toddler hat circumference – 16” (40.5 cm) - CO is 84
Notions: Stitch Markers, Yarn Needle
Stitches Used: KKnit K2tog Knit 2 stitches together *SskSlip 1 stitch knitwise, slip 2nd stitch knitwise, knit both stitches together PM Place marker Slip Markermove marker from one needle to the other when you encounter it in the round.
If you want a .pdf copy of this pattern, want the chart or if you make this item – please click on this link below and add your own pictures as a project on Ravelry. Just click on the crochet hook with the words “Hook It” if this is a crochet pattern or if it is a knit pattern click on the words “Cast On” near the top right side and this will add your item as a project. Then you can add the pictures when you have completed your project. http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/free-smoothfoxs-happy-skull-hat-for-little-pirate-girls-and-boys
Thank you once again MarieAnge Brouillard aka MariAngel (ravelry id) for all of your wonderful help with this pattern.
INSTRUCTIONS for size changes are within [ ] With smaller needles and color A and using the long-tail method, CO on for 60 [72, 84] sts, place marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist.
Round 1 thru 6: Work 6 rounds of (colour A) K2, (color B) P2 ribbing
SWITCH TO LARGER NEEDLES HERE Round 7: (color A) knit around
Round 8: (color A) K12, *insert marker, K12* repeat from * around.
Use 1 marker that is distinct from the others to show the beginning of the round.
Measure hat to see if it is the approximate length you’d like. Hat measurements are approx 5.5” [14 cm] (6” [15.25 cm], 6.5” [16.5 cm]) before decreasing depending on your preferences. Repeat round 29 as many times as needed before your decrease rounds begin.Proceed to decrease rounds.
On the last repeat of round 29, stop when there are 2 stitches left before the beginning marker. From here on, these will be the first 2 stitches of each round. Do not remove the markers.
Please ensure that the first marker that marks the beginning of the round is of a different color than the rest. Each round begins 2 stitches before the first marker.
DECREASE ROUNDS:
OPTIONAL:Alternate between color A and color B every stitch for all decrease and knit rounds.IE: Color A-K1, Color B-K1
NOTE - The 2 stitches at the beginning before the marker are actually the last 2 stitches of the previous round. On the decrease rounds, those 2 stitches will be knit together, then the stitch marker slipped from one needle to the other, followed by the ssk decrease.
Round 1: k2 stitches, slip marker, k12, *slip marker, k12* repeat around, stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker. (5 [6, 7] markers, and 5 [6, 7] sections with 12 stitches between each marker)
Round 2: Decrease round Beginning with the 2 stitches before the first marker, k2tog, slip marker, *ssk, k8, k2tog,slip marker,* repeat from * to * around. Stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker. (5[6,7] k2tog, 5[6, 7] ssk, total of 10 stitches between each marker)
Round 3: k2 stitches, slip marker, k12, *slip marker, k12* repeat around, stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker.(10 stitches between markers)
Round 4: Decrease round Beginning with the 2 stitches before marker 1, k2tog, slip marker, *ssk, k6, k2tog,slip marker,* repeat from * to * around. Stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker. (5[6,7] k2tog, 5[6, 7] ssk, total of 8 stitches between each marker)
Round 5: k2 stitches, slip marker, k12, *slip marker, k12* repeat around, stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker. (8 stitches between markers)
Round 6: Decrease round Beginning with the 2 stitches before marker 1, k2tog, slip marker, *ssk, k4, k2tog,slip marker,*, repeat from * to * around. Stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker. (5[6,7] k2tog, 5[6, 7] ssk, total of 6 stitches between each marker)
Round 7: k2 stitches, slip marker, k12, *slip marker, k12* repeat around, stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker.(6 stitches between markers)
Round 8: Decrease round Beginning with the 2 stitches before the first marker, k2tog, slip marker, *ssk, k2, k2tog,slip marker,*, repeat from * to * around. when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker. (5[6,7] k2tog, 5[6, 7] ssk, total of 4 stitches between each marker)
Round 9: k2 stitches, slip marker, k12, *slip marker, k12* repeat around, stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker.(4 stitches between markers)
Round 10: Decrease round Beginning with the 2 stitches before the first marker,k2tog, slip marker, *ssk, k2, k2tog,slip marker,*, repeat from * to * around. Stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker. (5[6,7] k2tog, 5[6, 7] ssk, total of 2 stitches between each marker)
Optional: You may take one more decrease round for the toddler hat if needed.
Cut yarn leaving an 8" tail. Using a large-eyed darning needle run thread through remaining stitches and fasten off. Weave in ends and finish off.
This pattern has been tested.Please notify me of any pattern corrections. I will answer any and all questions you may have with the instructions.Do not plagiarize this pattern.All patterns are my original designs. Please do not re-sell my patterns or give them away for free or post my patterns on the Internet. You may sell items you make from my patterns at craft fairs, fund raisers or custom orders for friends and family but please do not sell finished items on the internet without my written permission. Do not claim designs as your own.
This pattern is copyrighted by me and I give my permission for you to post pictures of items made from my pattern on your website if you will post a link back to my Ravelry store if the pattern is for sale.If the pattern is free, please direct people to my Blog.Be sure to list the name SmoothFox as the designer.
If you want a .pdf copy of this pattern which includes the chart or if you make this item – please click on this link below and add your own pictures as a project on Ravelry. Just click on the crochet hook with the words “Hook It” if this is a crochet pattern or if it is a knit pattern click on the words “Cast On” near the top right side and this will add your item as a project. Then you can add the pictures when you have completed your project.
Thank you once again MarieAnge Brouillard aka MariAngel (ravelry id) for all of your wonderful help with this pattern.
INSTRUCTIONS for size changes are within ( )
With smaller needles and color A and using the long-tail method, CO on for 96 (108) sts, place marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist.
Round 1 thru 6: Work 6 rounds of (colour A) K2, (color B) P2 ribbing
SWITCH TO LARGER NEEDLES HERE
Round 7: (color A) knit around
Round 8: (color A) K12, *insert marker, K12* repeat from * around
Measure hat to see if it is the approximate length you’d like.Hat should measure approximately 6.5” to 7.5” [16.5 to 19 cm] before decreasing depending on your preferences. Repeat round 35 as many times as needed before you begin the decrease rounds.
On the last repeat of round 35, stop when there are 2 stitches before the beginning marker. From here on, this will be the first 2 stitches on each round. Do not remove the markers!
DECREASE ROUNDS:
Please ensure that the first marker that marks the beginning of the round is of a different color than the rest. Each round begins 2 stitches before the first marker.
OPTIONAL:If you desire, alternate between color A and color B every stitch for all the decrease and knit rounds. IE: Color A-K1, Color B-K1
Round 1: k2 stitches, slip marker, k12, *slip marker, k12* repeat around. Stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker. (8 [9] markers, and 8 [9] sections with 12 stitches between each marker)
Round 2: Decrease round Beginning with the 2 stitches before the first marker, k2tog, slip marker, *ssk, k8, k2tog,slip marker,* repeat from * to * around. Stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker. (8 [9] k2tog, 8 [9] ssk, total of 10 stitches between each marker)
Round 3 and 4: k2 stitches, slip marker, k12, *slip marker, k12* repeat around. Stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker. (10 stitches between markers)
Round 5: Decrease round Beginning with the 2 stitches before the first marker, k2tog, slip marker, *ssk, k6, k2tog,slip marker,* repeat from * to * around. Stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker. (8 [9] k2tog, 8[9] ssk, total of 8 stitches between each marker)
Round 6 and 7: k2 stitches, slip marker, k12, *slip marker, k12* repeat around, stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker.(8 stitches between markers)
Round 8: Decrease round Beginning with the 2 stitches before the first marker, k2tog, slip marker, *ssk, k4, k2tog,slip marker,*, repeat from * to * around. Stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker. (8 [9] k2tog, 8[9] ssk, total of 6 stitches between each marker)
Round 9 and 10: k2 stitches, slip marker, k12, *slip marker, k12* repeat around, stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker.(6 stitches between markers)
Round 11:Decrease round Beginning with the 2 stitches before the first marker, k2tog, slip marker, *ssk, k2, k2tog,slip marker,*, repeat from * to * around. Stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker. (8 [9] k2tog, 8 [9] ssk, total of 4 stitches between each marker)
Round 12 and 13: k2 stitches, slip marker, k12, *slip marker, k12* repeat around, stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker. (4 stitches between markers)
Round 14: Decrease round Beginning with the 2 stitches before the first marker,
k2tog, slip marker, *ssk, k2, k2tog,slip marker,*, repeat from * to * around. Stop when you have reached the first 2 stitches before the beginning marker.(8 [9] k2tog, 8 [9] ssk, total of 4 stitches between each marker)
You may opt to do one more decrease round before finishing off.
Cut yarn leaving an 8" (20 cm) tail. Using a large eyed darning needle run thread through remaining stitches and fasten off. Weave in ends and finish off.
This pattern has been tested.Please notify me of any pattern corrections. I will answer any and all questions you may have with the instructions.Do not plagiarize this pattern.All patterns are my original designs. Please do not re-sell my patterns or give them away for free or post my patterns on the Internet. You may sell items you make from my patterns at craft fairs, fund raisers or custom orders for friends and family but please do not sell finished items on the internet without my written permission. Do not claim designs as your own.
This pattern is copyrighted by me and I give my permission for you to post pictures of items made from my pattern on your website if you will post a link back to my Ravelry store if the pattern is for sale.If the pattern is free, please direct people to my Blog.Be sure to list the name SmoothFox as the designer.
