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Tell a friend about my site please. If you are in a crochet group doing Block of the Month's or CAL's, please consider my patterns.
MY EMAIL: SmoothFoxLover@yahoo.com
If you want a .pdf copy of this pattern you can click the button at the bottom of this blog post or if you make this item –
please click on this link and add your own pictures as a project on
Ravelry. Just click on the crochet hook
with the words “Hook It” if this is a crochet pattern or if it is a knit pattern
click on the words “Cast On” near the top right side and this will add your
item as a project. Then you can add the
pictures when you have completed your project.
NOTE: FOR A WIDER SCARF –
use an odd number of chain stitches plus two additional chains. Example 25 plus
2 for 27 beginning chain’s.
Row
1: Ch 19, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next
15 ch’s. MARK ANY STITCH AS THE RIGHT
SIDE OF THE SCARF. (17 dc)
Row
2: WS Ch
4 (counts as dc plus ch-1 sp), turn, sk next st, dc in next st, *ch 1, sk 1 st,
dc in next st* repeat from * to * across. (9 dc, 8 ch-1 sps)
Row
3:RS Ch
3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in next st or ch-1 sp across. (17 dc)
Repeat
rows 2 and 3 until your scarf is the desired length. Always end after a row 3
repeat. Weave in ends of yarn when you
are done
Attach
the peace signs:
Lay out your scarf with the right side facing. Arrange the peace signs in an attractive
pattern. Set peace signs aside in the
order you want to sew them on.
Once you know your arrangement of your peace signs
that you find attractive, using small needle and thread, attach your peace
signs to the scarf.
Remember
that you will place half the peace signs on each side of the scarf so be sure
to arrange them facing one direction on the left side of the scarf and reverse
them on the right side of the scarf so they face the normal way and are not
upside down on the second side of the scarf.
This
pattern has not been tested. Please
notify me of any pattern corrections. I will answer any and all questions you
may have with the instructions. Do not
plagiarize this pattern. All patterns
are my original designs. Please do not re-sell my patterns or give them away
for free or post my patterns on the Internet. You may sell items you make from
my patterns at craft fairs, fund raisers or custom orders for friends and
family but please do not sell finished items on the internet without my written
permission. Do not claim designs as your own.
This pattern is
copyrighted by me and I give my permission for you to post pictures of items
made from my pattern on your website if you will post a link back to my Ravelry
store if the pattern is for sale. If the
pattern is free, please direct people to my blog SmoothFoxLover.blogspot.com Be sure to list the name SmoothFox as the
designer.
I'm pleased to announce that I've been asked to participate in the Designer Showcase CAL with Melinda Miller and I'm looking forward to sharing my design with you all. Shhh….that’s all I can reveal at this time! :)
Here's the information regarding the CAL so get your yarn and hooks ready.
Melinda Miller from MoCrochetand Melinda Miller Designs on Ravelry is hosting a unique CAL for 2013. This year we will crochet aDesigner Showcase Sampler. It will be comprised of twelve – 12” afghan blocks that are designed by various designers. Each month a mystery Designer will be revealed and you will get to know her and her designs. At the end of the year, you will have enough blocks to make your very own Designer Showcase Afghan to keep for yourself or to give away.
There are many talented crochet Designers, and this year we will put the spotlight on some of them. Please join us in welcoming some of these talented Designers as we create our new afghan. At the first of each month, you will be introduced to a new Designer and her design. She will also be available for questions and chat. Just follow the link to Melinda’s Ravelry group above.
Currently I am working on a few things. Trying to get my Christmas presents done. One of the gifts I am working on is a pair of fingerless gloves. Not the BEST picture but you can at least see the stitching on it. I got the pattern from another blogger. Pattern is found here http://crochetedpanda.blogspot.com/2010/12/double-double-armwarmers.html I did 1 thing different from the pattern. When I sowed them up I used a different color to give it a little bit of a border. I used my favorite yarn to work with right now. It is Hobby Lobby's brand called I Love This Yarn.
The second one is a scarf for my mother that has a v-stitch. I believe I got the idea from a Lion Brand free pattern. I have a picture of it attached also.
I could attach about 10 other photos of the stuff I have recently finished for Christmas but I will refrain today.
Hope you are having a wonderful day and sorry to see that someone is giving away your patterns! :(
Please make some comments and send me some pictures thru an email with what you're working on. Include the links to where people can obtain the pattern and I'll post them on the blog. In addition, please email me what you want me to make video's about. I've been asked to make a couple of video's for knitting but I'd love to hear what everyone wants a video on. It can be knitting or crocheting.
Melinda Miller of MoCrochet and Melinda Miller Designs (a Ravelry group) has given me instructions on how my followers can print out patterns from the blog instead of heading to Ravelry to download the pattern. Please give it a shot. At the bottom of each post is a Joliprint icon. Thank you so much Melinda.
Additionally, I'm pleased to say that Melinda has asked me to participate in theDesigner’s Showcase Afghan 2013. Each month will showcase a new designer and their 12” X 12” afghan block. So stay tuned and I hope many of you participate. At the end of the year you will have a great afghan to stitch together. Each month there will be one square added. I also have been contacted by AllFreeCrochetPatterns and it's other affiliates over the past 2 years and asked to let them post some of my patterns. Again this year, they are going to be featuring multiple patterns in various e-books. This brings me great joy. Happy Crocheting! Donna
With smaller needles US 6 – 4 mm and color A and
using the long-tail method, CO on 88
sts, place marker of a different colorand join in the round, being careful not to twist.
Round 10: Begin chart – the stitch marked area is
two stitches to the right and left of the chart. IGNORE BLANK
LINES AT THE BOTTOM OF THE CHART
CHART IS READ FROM BOTTOM UP. RIGHT TO LEFT ON RIGHT SIDE ROWS (knit rows)
AND LEFT TO RIGHT ON WRONG SIDE ROWS (purl rows). THE CHART BEGINS WITH THE BOTTOM LINE OF THE
ACTUAL WRITING
If you are unfamiliar with the wrap and
turn method and picking up the wraps when knitting in the round, please watch
this video from PlanetPurl. There are
many versions showing this technique but at least this video shows the
technique using a hat although they don’t show a stitch marker showing the
beginning of the round.
This project can also be knit flat if
you do not want to do the method above.
Round 30: (color A) knit
Measure hat to see if it is the approximate length
you’d like. Smaller size hats are approx 6” before decreasing, larger hats can
be from 7” to 8” depending on your preferences. Hat pictured is 7”before beginning decrease rounds. Follow
decrease rounds if your hat is the proper length. Repeat round 30 as many times as needed
before your decrease rounds begin.
DECREASE ROUNDS - Use color A for
all decrease rounds and change to dpn’s when sts get tight to knit.
Round 1: *(K6, K2tog) repeat from *
Round 2 and all even Rounds: Knit
Round 3: *(K5, K2tog) repeat from *
Round 5: *(K4, K2tog) repeat from *
Round 7: *(K3, K2tog) repeat from *
Round 9: *(K2, K2tog) repeat from *
Round 11: *(K1, K2tog) repeat from *
Round 13: *(K2tog) repeat from *
Small hats stop here. Larger hats, continue with Round 14 and 15
Round 15: *(K2tog) repeat from *
Cut yarn leaving a 8" tail. Using large eyed
sewing needle run thread through remaining stitches and fasten off. Weave in
ends and finish off.
This
pattern has been tested. Please notify
me of any pattern corrections. I will answer any and all questions you may have
with the instructions. Do not plagiarize
this pattern. All
patterns are my original designs. Please do not re-sell my patterns or give
them away for free or post my patterns on the Internet. You may sell items you
make from my patterns at craft fairs, fund raisers or custom orders for friends
and family but please do not sell finished items on the internet without my
written permission. Do not claim designs as your own.
This pattern is copyrighted by me and I give my
permission for you to post pictures of items made from my pattern on your
website if you will post a link back to my Ravelry store if the pattern is for
sale.If the pattern is free, please
direct people to my Blog.Be sure to
list the name SmoothFox as the designer.
3. It takes you to the pattern page – you need to log-in to Ravelry to see the “Hook it” icon in step 4
4. Click on the "Hook it" icon in the top right area
5. It will let you fill in the blanks, name your own name for the piece you worked. You can name it whatever you want. Example: Nancy's blah blah blah. It will let you rate the pattern also. So you enter all the information about your "project" like, did you like it, did you have to add a round of sc's to make it the right size, what yarn you used etc and then you save that. General notes for other people who will see it.
6. Then there is a tab so you can add your pictures of your square or blanket or multiple squares with the same pattern.
7. If you had already created your project on Ravelry before I posted the pattern, you will need to go to the link above – highlight and copy the BOLD name of the pattern that I named it. Then go to your project page and put in this name as the pattern name link.
Please read this ENTIRE posting before responding that you want to test.
This blanket is an INTERMEDIATE project. It requires concentration when working the words around the blanket. Blanket patterns always go super fast. If you aren't fast, you will not be able to test it. Once I have set out a posting that I have found enough testers, please don't ask to test. Additionally, do not ask to test if you do not have quiet time in order to work the pattern.
If you want to test, send me an email to the address below with your Follower name. Only the first FIVE people emailing me will receive the pattern to test. I respond to all requests. If you don't receive a response, send another email as your original email may have gone into spam. Please don't post a comment that you'd like to test. I can't send a copy of the pattern to a "comment." You have to email me as it states. Don't send me a comment through the Google feed that you want to test. You must use the email address below.
Read the rules below:
1. Must be a member of Ravelry, a follower of this blog and a subscriber to this blog.
2. Must be able to finish testing by Sunday September 30, 2012
3. Must be able to send me a picture of your finished item attached to an email. People not following through and sending me a picture or not posting on Ravelry will no longer be able to test future patterns.
4. Must be able to send me errors of any kind you find in the pattern.
5. It is mandatory as of January 23, 2011 that all testers add their test projects on Ravelry after I post the link to the pattern. Once I post the pattern, you'll need to go back to Ravelry and link it to the proper pattern. If you posted your project ahead of time, it won't be linked to the pattern without using the exact name I called the pattern once it was posted. Anyway, believe me, I will be checking. If 10 people want to test, there should be 10 projects on Ravelry.
6. You can use whatever brand of 4 ply yarn you'd like to use. NO VARIEGATED YARN OR STRIPPED YARNS. The pattern will give you the specific's of what I used but you can use whatever colors of yarn you'd like to use. You will need two skeins of white or whatever color you are using instead of white, two skeins of the other main color and two additional colors but you will not use the entire skeins.
If you want a .pdf copy of this pattern
or if you make this item – please click on this link below and
add your own pictures as a project on Ravelry. Just click on the crochet hook
with the words “Hook It” if this is a crochet pattern or if it is a knit
pattern click on the words “Cast On” near the top right side and this will add
your item as a project. Then you can add the pictures when you have completed
your project.
Illusion Knitting uses flat Knitting (Knits on the
right side, Purls on the wrong side) and raised Knitting (Purls on the right
side, Knits on the wrong side) to raise the colors you want. This way, when you
look at your item straight on, you see stripes of the two colors in your
project and when you look at your project from a different angle, you see the
magic of Illusion Knitting.
To Illusion knit one row on a regular chart it
takes 4 rows of Knitting. For this
pattern, the first two rows are in one color (the heart color OR the image you
are wanting to stand out) and the second two rows are in the background
color. Starting on the right side, the
first and every odd row number are Knit across all stitches. On the wrong side (every even numbered row)
you will Knit the stitches you want to raise, and Purl the stitches you want to
lay flat.
Here is the video for this project:
As my blog consists mostly of crochet
people I have made parts of the video very simple so that crocheter’s can learn
to knit. Speed thru the parts you don’t
need.
Here is the link if you need it instead of watching the video here:
Using your background color with a long tail cast
on – CO 5 stitches, PM, CO 21 stitches, PM, CO 5 stitches.
Knit 1 row BACKGROUND COLOR (in this pattern the
yellow is the background color)
This is the FILLER
section;
Row 1: K31 HEART COLOR
Row 2: K5, P21, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 3: K31 BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 4: K31 BACKGROUND COLOR
Repeat
above rows 3 or 4 times
NOTE: THE PINK 5 SQUARES TO THE RIGHT AND LEFT OF
THE ACTUAL HEART ON THE CHART ARE JUST THE BORDER STITCHES. THE ACTUAL PATTERN IS FOR THE HEART BUT DOES
INCLUDE INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE BORDER.
Charts are normally read from the bottom up, right
to left on all odd row numbers and from left to right on all even row
numbers. As this chart is the same when
read from right to left or left to right you can read from right to left on all
rows. Start in the bottom right corner
as line 1.
You can work strictly
from the chart above, instead of reading the pattern below if you’d like and
for each line of the chart do the following 4 rows:
Row 1: (heart color) knit one row plain
Row 2: (heart color) knit the border, purl the
non-heart pattern, knit the heart pattern, purl the non-heart pattern, knit the
border
Row 3: (background color) knit one row plain
Row 4: (background color) knit the border, knit
the non-heart pattern, purl the heart pattern, knit the non-heart pattern, knit
the border
If you are going to
work strictly from the chart and are going to work a scarf, you must see the
instructions at the end of the written instructions for the
second half of the scarf as you must reverse some of the rows around.
WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS
FOR THE PATTERN START HERE:
LINE 1 OF CHART
(bottom line of chart)
Row 1: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 2: K5, P10, K1, P10, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 3: Knit BACKGROUND
COLOR (RS)
Row 4: K15, P1, K15
BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 2 OF CHART
Row 5: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 6: K5, P9, K3, P9,
K5 HEART COLOR
Row 7: Knit BACKGROUND
COLOR (RS)
Row 8: K14, P3, K14
BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 3 OF CHART
Row 9: Knit HEART COLOR
(RS)
Row 10: K5, P8, K5,
P8, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 11: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 12: K13, P5, K13
BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 4 OF CHART
Row 13: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 14: K5, P7, K7,
P7, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 15: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 16: K12, P7, K12
BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 5 OF CHART
Row 17: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 18: K5, P6, K9,
P6, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 19: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 20: K11, P9, K11
BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 6 OF CHART
Row 21: Knit HEART COLOR (RS)
Row 22: K5, P5, K11,
P5, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 23: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 24: K10, P11, K10 BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 7 OF CHART
Row 25: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 26: K5, P4, K13,
P4, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 27: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 28: K9, P13, K9
BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 8 OF CHART
Row 29: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 30: K5, P3, K15,
P3, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 31: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 32: K8, P15, K8
BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 9 OF CHART
Row 33: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 34: K5, P3, K7,
P1, K7, P3, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 35: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 36: K8, P7, K1,
P7, K8 BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 10 OF CHART
Row 37: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 38: K5, P3, K6,
P3, K6, P3, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 39: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 40: K8, P6, K3,
P6, K8 BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 11 OF CHART – TOP
LINE OF CHART
Row 41: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 42: K5, P4, K4,
P5, K4, P4, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 43: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 44: K9, P4, K5,
P4, K9 BACKGROUND COLOR
Work FILLER instuctions (SEE ABOVE AT TOP OF PATTERN) 3 or 4 times.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR A
SQUARE AND A SCARF:
FOR A SQUARE: – BIND
OFF (SEE VIDEO). CUT YARN, WEAVE ENDS.
FOR A SCARF:
Repeat rows 1 to 44 plus
the number of filler rows between each heart as many times as you wish for one
half of your scarf. Once you have
reached the half way point, begin working the pattern slightly
differently. Written instructions are
below this explanation.
GENERAL INFORMATION AGAIN:
This is just some
information if you are interested in knowing what happens now. If not, skip down to the instructions
below. You will reverse some of the the
four knitted rows it takes to work one line of the chart. You would be working
the very top line of the chart – LINE 11 – working from top to bottom but the
instructions change now.
First - Row 43
Second - Row 44
Third - Row 41
Fourth - Row 42
Then you would go down
a line of the chart and work
First – Row 39
Second – Row 40
Third – Row 37
Fourth – Row 38
Notice you are not
working from the bottom of the written instructions backwards but that you are
working the instructions within each line reversed. Ie… 43, 44, 41, 42 instead of 44, 43, 42, 41
INSTRUCTIONS FOR
SECOND HALF OF A SCARF:
LINE 11 OF CHART – TOP
LINE OF CHART
Row 43: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 44: K9, P4, K5,
P4, K9 BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 41: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 42: K5, P4, K4,
P5, K4, P4, K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 10 OF CHART
Row 39: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 40: K8, P6, K3,
P6, K8 BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 37: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 38: K5, P3, K6,
P3, K6, P3, K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 9 OF CHART
Row 35: Knit BACKGROUND
COLOR (RS)
Row 36: K8, P7, K1,
P7, K8 BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 33: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 34: K5, P3, K7,
P1, K7, P3, K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 8 OF CHART
Row 31: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 32: K8, P15, K8
BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 29: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 30: K5, P3, K15,
P3, K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 7 OF CHART
Row 27: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 28: K9, P13, K9
BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 25: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 26: K5, P4, K13,
P4, K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 6 OF CHART
Row 23: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 24: K10, P11, K10 BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 21: Knit HEART COLOR (RS)
Row 22: K5, P5, K11,
P5, K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 5 OF CHART
Row 19: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 20: K11, P9, K11
BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 17: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 18: K5, P6, K9, P6,
K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 4 OF CHART
Row 15: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 16: K12, P7, K12
BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 13: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 14: K5, P7, K7,
P7, K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 3 OF CHART
Row 9: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 10: K5, P8, K5,
P8, K5 HEART COLOR
Row 11: Knit
BACKGROUND COLOR (RS)
Row 12: K13, P5, K13
BACKGROUND COLOR
LINE 2 OF CHART
Row 7: Knit BACKGROUND
COLOR (RS)
Row 8: K14, P3, K14
BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 5: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 6: K5, P9, K3, P9,
K5 HEART COLOR
LINE 1 OF CHART (bottom line of chart)
Row 3: Knit BACKGROUND
COLOR (RS)
Row 4: K15, P1, K15
BACKGROUND COLOR
Row 1: Knit HEART
COLOR (RS)
Row 2: K5, P10, K1, P10, K5 HEART COLOR
This is the FILLER
section which is no longer like the top filler section;
This
pattern has been tested. Please notify
me of any pattern corrections. I will answer any and all questions you may have
with the instructions. Do not
plagiarize this pattern. All
patterns are my original designs. Please do not re-sell my patterns or give
them away for free or post my patterns on the Internet. You may sell items you
make from my patterns at craft fairs, fund raisers or custom orders for friends
and family but please do not sell finished items on the Internet without my
written permission.
This pattern is
copyrighted by me and I give my permission for you to post pictures of items
made from my pattern on your website if you will post a link back to my Ravelry
store if the pattern is for sale. If
the pattern is free, please direct people to my blog: http://SmoothFoxLover.blogspot.com Be sure to list the name SmoothFox as the
designer.
